Best Way To Introduce Rats – Tribe of Rats

If you are thinking of introducing a new rat to your existing rat or rats – then it is best to follow a few simple steps rather than just crossing your fingers.

As a species, they are normally quite laid back, but with new rat introductions, even if you are introducing young pups – male or female – you still need to take a few things into consideration if you want it all to run smoothly (and without injury).

Here, Tribe of Rats’ Elly gives her tips and advice on introducing rats to each other:

We have been introducing rats to each other for years now – so we have quite a bit of experience with introduction methods and have an idea about which rats are going to be most compatible together.  Although as with any animal, all rats are individuals of course – so you need to watch them all closely throughout any rat introductions just to be safe.

Anyway, there are two main types of rat intro; The Carrier Method and the Shared Space Method, and we shall look at how to do our preferred method right here:

The Carrier Method (the most commonly used method for rat introductions).

This is the way we do all of our introductions now here at Tribe of Rats and it involves temporarily popping all the rats – including the new one/s – into a small carrier together surrounded by food and with at least two water sources.

Gradually, throughout the next two days (and with positive signs) you increase the size of the carriers or cages until they are back in their original large enclosure (albeit without all their usual enrichment just yet).

Historically as a breeder, females took to new females super easy – and we only really ever had problems with introducing male rats together. Now though, as we expand our rattery; we have acquired our rescue girls where one of them is a bully and we had had our first problems with females bonding using this method.

The main thing with the Carrier Method is don’t rush it. 

We take days over it now after the experience we had where Mr Brown injuring Reggie.

In theory, you don’t need to take as long introducing juveniles as you would adults as they don’t yet form part of the hierarchy – however our rescue girls were actually violent towards our juveniles when we did it the short way (2 hours in a carrier and then into the big cage) so we did it the long-winded way to be safe.

What Are The Good Signs Of A Rat Introduction?

Basically you want rat piles at every stage. If they are not sleeping on top of each other yet, don’t move on to the next stage.

The whole point of this method is about territory and working towards them sharing that space. If they won’t allow each other in the same space to eat and sleep, then they need to stay at that stage for longer.

Most injuries occur when a rat runs from its aggressor (usually getting legs and tails caught in bars, ladders or other things) so to reduce this risk you need to create an area of minimal space – hence the carrier.  This reduced and safe space means that rats can’t run and climb anywhere – and there is certainly no space for them to be cornered or trapped.

Try and begin your rat introductions as early in the day as possible as you need to be able to monitor them and act fast should problems arise.  Start off with the smallest and lowest enclosed space you have which is usually a secure pet carrier.

Having two water sources (one at each end of the carrier or cage) is a good idea as a lot of friction stems from access or lack of access to water and food. 

Also bear in mind that some pet carriers overheat very quickly and with the plastic sides they can get very hot in there.  For this reason, we tend not to keep them in the carrier longer than 2 hours where we can. We have also sourced a small hamster cage that is the same size as a carrier and it’s much better for ventilation, so we have an alternative if needed.

So, How Do I Actually Do The Rat Carrier Method?

Firstly, make sure you have the full day to devote to the introduction – including the evening as that is when you will need to make sure all has gone well. 

Also make sure you have all your enclosures and accessories close to hand and ready incase of any upsets on the way. Messing up part way through could have you have to start all over.

So, if you are using a pet carrier, you need to put all your rats in it at the same time along with your food, keeping a close eye on them until they settle.  However, the order you put the rats in the carrier/cage is the most important thing.

As the Carrier Method for rats is all about domination over space – you can’t put the dominant one in first – otherwise they have already won?   You need to put your new rats in first – so they ‘own’ it when you put the more dominant one in.

If you don’t already know it – the easiest way to tell who your existing alpha is, is to see who is at the bottom of your current rat piles. The alpha sleeps at the bottom with all the others on top (this is to protect the alpha from a would-be predator and to keep them super warm).  The other rats will want to have this privilege too so if you have more than 3 in a group – the beta will be the one next to the alpha.

Scatter feed them during the entire process so they don’t have to squabble over anything. If you notice any problems, talk to them and perhaps scatter feed some even more tasty tidbits in to the cage instead.  This should have the effect of keeping them thinking about something else other than the new rat/s.

Don’t forget, it is like sharing a broken-down lift in there – so make it as nice as you can for them.

After about 2 hours – if all has gone well – move them all up to a small hamster cage and watch closely again for the rest of the day for any signs that they are still not quite friends.

I would suggest, even if you have great rat piles during this stage – still keep them in the small hamster cage overnight. You are not going to damage the fragile hierarchy they have formed by making introductions more long-winded – however by cutting them short, you can affect these relationships in a big way and may have to start over.

Once you have made it throught the first night, in stages over the next day, move them up in cage sizes (depending on how many different cages you have made ready of course).

Make sure none of the cages you use have hammocks or tubes etc. Nothing that rats can hide or be trapped in. Once they are in their permanent cage, you can start to introduce hammocks and toys gradually – starting with open flats first, then slowly building up to nests, cubes and enclosed spaces.  Remember, slower is always better than too fast.

What Happens If My Rats Start To Fight?

If at any point there is squabbling or fighting – gauge the severity first before reacting.

If there is just nipping and brawling, leave them together – this is to be expected as they tell each other who is boss and how this new group is going to work out.  They have to size each other up otherwise the introduction won’t work.  Therefore, only split them up if there is more than just a spot of blood.

If there is no blood, depending on the severity of the attack, leave them a bit longer in whichever size enclosure they are currently in.  They may well quickly sort out their differences here – or you could – for peace of mind – move them back to the sized cage you were using in the previous stage of the intro.

If all goes to plan overnight and through the next morning, then keep moving up the cage sizes until they reach their original cage and then – while it is still quite bare of enrichment – keep up the multiple water sources (on different sides of the cage) and scatter feeding until you are sure they are fine.

Gradually over the next week start adding one new hammock or tunnel at a time and slow down if you are unsure, but keep going until they are back up to normal and you have your happy new family.

What Is The Shared Space Method For Rat Introductions?

The other method we’re not as knowledgeable of, but it is called either the ‘shared space’ or ‘neutral space’ introduction because it is just that.

The Shared Space method involves either your sofa or your bathtub and it creates an environment totally opposite to the space created using the Carrier Method – as you are effectively introducing them as ‘free roam’.

Personally, we think that this method could be ideal if you were introducing two sets of young rats, but we have always found that we have problems when moving into confined spaces afterwards. Unless the cage is totally neutral (ie: in no way can be identified by either rat) we believe a lot of people will come unstuck here as the rats will most likely become territorial once they have sussed out where they are – and it is their old home.

Although at Tribe of Rats we would always recommend the Carrier Method when homing our own rats into an existing rat group – we would be happy to answer questions and offer support to anyone who wanted to try the Shared Space Method with their own rats.

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